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I'm a serf, not a surfer. It takes some kind of courage to ride a pipeline.

Stratslinger 7 Feb 3
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Why does it take courage?
The harder, the more challenging, the sport ... any sport ... the more deeply the participant is immersed in it.
The more deeply one is immersed, the less actual thought there is outside of rising to the challenge.

Courage ... bravery ... is when something scares the crap out of you ... and you do it anyway.
Few people at that level in any sport even stop to consider how dangerous it might be ... including myself.
Afterwards, you might look back at what you just did and say to yourself; “Holy Crap!!! I coulda got killed!!!” But ... at the moment?
No ... if you stop to fear you ain’t gonna do it.

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Great picture

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